Then cut notches (called bird’smouths) in the rafters where they’ll sit atop the headers. Choose a radius that is pleasing to the eye, scribe it with a compass and make the cut with a jigsaw (photo 3). Also cut the curved profile of the headers, ridge and rafter tails. It’s better to have experts discover a potential problem before construction than to have to remedy it afterward.īuilding the framework To begin construction, cut the notches in the 6×6 corner posts that will support the headers (photo 1), and cut the saddle joint where the 6×6 center post and the 4×4 crossbeam will meet (see drawing, opposite, and photo 2). If you’re not sure that your existing deck will work, ask for a preconstruction site inspection. Local officials will closely analyze such factors as the amount of weight the roof may need to support (say, because of snow loads), the number of footings needed to handle that weight, and how the load is transferred to those footings. You must file a final plan with your municipality before construction, and you must obtain a building permit. Of course, local codes will govern some aspects of the design. If you’re building on an elevated deck with no access to the ground, skip the door. For example, if you’re building on top of a ground-level deck, you might be able to omit a railing altogether.

It’s up to you whether to add railings, lattice, doors or trim, depending on your structure. Rafters made of 2×8 full-size lumber support the roof sheathing of 2×6 tongue-and-groove cedar, and asphalt shingles keep the elements off your head. (Full-size lumber differs from dimensional lumber in that its actual dimensions match its stated size, whereas a dimensional 2×10 measures only 1-1/2 x 9-1/2 in.) A ridge beam runs down the center of the roof and forms the prow of the roofline - again we used doubled 2×10 full-size cedar. Two headers run the length of each side - in our case, the headers are doubled 2×10 full-size cedar beams. Five 6×6 posts provide the primary support. If you have a basic understanding of carpentry, in just a few weekends you’ll be able to build your own version of our screened-in sanctuary.ĭesigning the structure Though building a screened enclosure may seem daunting at first, take heart surprisingly few structural elements are necessary to this design. Wouldn’t it be nice to have outside living space that not only protected you from insects and weather but also added beauty and value to your house? You can achieve all of this by building a screened enclosure over your existing deck.Īlthough it’s impossible to design an screen enclosure that fits every deck or need, you can easily modify our structure to fit almost anywhere, thanks to its few components and simple construction techniques. Each year blazing sun, sudden rains and swarms of insects conspire to keep us from enjoying our decks as much as we’d like.

Conspire screen